Supervising Children
Always Supervise Dogs And Kids!
It's sound advice given frequently: Supervise your dogs and kids while they are together. Breeders warn parents, "Don't leave the dog alone with children, no matter how friendly the breed." Veterinarians advise, "Never leave a dog and a child in the same room together." Dog trainers explain, "All dogs can bite so supervise your dog when you have children over." Everyone knows the drill. So why doesn't it work? Why are there an estimated 800,000 Americans seeking medical attention for dog bites each year, with over half of these injuries to children ages 5-9?
The bites are not a result of negligent parents leaving Fido to care for the baby while mom does household chores, oblivious to the needs of her children. In fact, I've consulted on hundreds of dog bite cases and 95% of the time the parent was standing within 3 feet of the child watching both child and dog when the child was bitten. Parents are supervising. The problem is not lack of supervision. The problem is no one has taught parents what they should be watching.
Parents generally have not received any education on what constitutes good dog body language and what constitutes an emergency between the dog and the child. Parents generally have no understanding of the predictable series of canine body cues that would indicate a dog might bite. And complicating matters further, most parents get confused by the good intentions of the child and fail to see when a dog is exhibiting signs of stress. The good new is all of this is easy to learn! We can all get better at this.
Here is a simple list to help you improve your supervision skills:
Watch for loose canine body language.
Good dog body language is loose, relaxed, and wiggly. Look for curves in your dog's body when he is around a child. Stiffening and freezing in a dog are not good. If you see your dog tighten his body, or if he moves from panting to holding his breath (he stops panting), you should intervene. These are early signs that your dog is not comfortable. Watch for inappropriate human behavior. Intervene if your child climbs on or attempts to ride your dog. Intervene if your child pulls the ears, yanks the tail, lifts the jowls or otherwise pokes and prods the dog. Don't marvel that your dog has the patience of Job if he is willing to tolerate these antics. And please don't videotape it for YouTube! Be thankful your dog has good bite inhibition and intervene before it's too late.
Watch for these three really easy to see stress signals in your dog. All of them indicate you should intervene and separate the child and dog:
It's sound advice given frequently: Supervise your dogs and kids while they are together. Breeders warn parents, "Don't leave the dog alone with children, no matter how friendly the breed." Veterinarians advise, "Never leave a dog and a child in the same room together." Dog trainers explain, "All dogs can bite so supervise your dog when you have children over." Everyone knows the drill. So why doesn't it work? Why are there an estimated 800,000 Americans seeking medical attention for dog bites each year, with over half of these injuries to children ages 5-9?
The bites are not a result of negligent parents leaving Fido to care for the baby while mom does household chores, oblivious to the needs of her children. In fact, I've consulted on hundreds of dog bite cases and 95% of the time the parent was standing within 3 feet of the child watching both child and dog when the child was bitten. Parents are supervising. The problem is not lack of supervision. The problem is no one has taught parents what they should be watching.
Parents generally have not received any education on what constitutes good dog body language and what constitutes an emergency between the dog and the child. Parents generally have no understanding of the predictable series of canine body cues that would indicate a dog might bite. And complicating matters further, most parents get confused by the good intentions of the child and fail to see when a dog is exhibiting signs of stress. The good new is all of this is easy to learn! We can all get better at this.
Here is a simple list to help you improve your supervision skills:
Watch for loose canine body language.
Good dog body language is loose, relaxed, and wiggly. Look for curves in your dog's body when he is around a child. Stiffening and freezing in a dog are not good. If you see your dog tighten his body, or if he moves from panting to holding his breath (he stops panting), you should intervene. These are early signs that your dog is not comfortable. Watch for inappropriate human behavior. Intervene if your child climbs on or attempts to ride your dog. Intervene if your child pulls the ears, yanks the tail, lifts the jowls or otherwise pokes and prods the dog. Don't marvel that your dog has the patience of Job if he is willing to tolerate these antics. And please don't videotape it for YouTube! Be thankful your dog has good bite inhibition and intervene before it's too late.
Watch for these three really easy to see stress signals in your dog. All of them indicate you should intervene and separate the child and dog:
- Yawning outside the context of waking up
- Half-moon eye – this means you can see the whites of your outer edges of your dog's eyes.
- Lip licking outside the context of eating food
Watch for avoidance behaviors. If your dog moves away from a child, intervene to prevent the child from following the dog. A dog that chooses to move away is making a great choice. He's saying, "I don't really want to be bothered, so I'll go away." However, when you fail to support his great choice and allow your child to continue to follow him, it's likely the dog's next choice will be, "Since I can't get away, I'll growl or snap at this kid to get the child to move away." Please don't cause your dog to make that choice.
Listen for growling. I can't believe how many times I've heard parents say, "Oh, he growled all the time but we never thought he would bite." Dog behavior, including aggression, is on a continuum. For dogs, growling is an early warning sign of aggression. Heed it. If growling doesn't work, the dog may escalate to snapping or biting. Growling is a clue that you should intervene between the dog and the child.
To pet owners, particularly those who also have children, thank you for supervising your dog! As a dog trainer and mother of two, I know that juggling kids and dogs is no easy feat. It takes patience, understanding, and a great deal of supervision. I hope these tips will help you get better at supervising.
Safety Tips for Kids and Pets (from ASPCA)
* Talk to your children about your pet's "body language." They give warning signs that mean, "leave me alone"
* Make sure your children don't bother puppy while it is eatting or when it goes to it's bed, crate, or 'safe spot'
* Teach your children and puppy to respect each other and 'play nice"
* Train your dog to respond to the word "stop". Teach your kids to use that word (instead of screaming or running away) if the dog gets overexcited.
* Don't let your pet play with your child's toys... or vice versa.
* If your children are old enough, let them take some responsibility for caring for the puppy. Set reasonable consequences if they neglect their duties.
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Puppy Biting
Biting Pant Legs & Ankles Chasing your moving feet and biting ankles and pant legs is a 100% natural dog behavior! But it's not much fun for you. Let's apply the four steps of problem-solving to find a solution:
1. Identify the specific problem. Here, biting ankles and pants legs.
2. Define what you want the puppy to do instead. The answer to this question is *never* "Stop doing the problem behavior." You could suppress the behavior, and the dog could choose to do something even worse! Save yourself a ton of frustration -- and your dog a ton of confusion -- and choose a preferred behavior. In this instance, I'd say, "Walk nicely next to me."
3. Manage the situation so the undesired behavior becomes non reinforcing or impossible. Why is the puppy doing it? Because it's natural to chase and bite moving things.
So step one, if the puppy pounces, STOP MOVING. As soon as the puppy pauses, click and treat -- reinforce the pause in activity. Start walking... stop the moment his teeth touch your ankles or clothes. Never again take a step while the puppy is biting you.
If you don't have time to do that, then MANAGE the situation and put the puppy somewhere where he can't bite you! Or take a different route! Don't get frustrated by your lack of planning and blame the pup.
If you find that the puppy does it only at certain times -- when he's overstimulated or tired, for example, or when you first get home or when you put the leash on -- manage the situation. Identify the triggers and plan for them.
4. Train the preferred behavior. Teach your pup it's fun and reinforcing to walk by your side. Reinforce heavily for any steps at your side -- this is a great foundation for loose-leash walking.
In this method, the dog has learned walking with mom is fun -- more fun than biting ankles and pant legs.
It is never, ever necessary to yell at, growl at, shake, muzzle grab, or otherwise physically punish this behavior. (Gee, I bet those behaviors make the pup anxious to walk at your side during loose leash walking. NOT!) ) Be proactive, not reactive. What has the pup learned if you use physical corrections?
That type of correction says, "I am bigger and stronger and you must do what I want." Is that what you want your pup to learn? If your pup is ever going to get large, or if he's ever going to be around children, physically-challenged people, or the elderly, I don't think you do. Teach what you want -- don't react and punish. If you have to react, YOU screwed up and let it happen. Don't punish the puppy for your poor planning.
(Article Credit Melissa Alexander - www.clickersolutions.com)
Teething, nipping and biting/chewing:
If he starts biting or placing his teeth on your skin say 'aacht' in a high pitched sound and walk away. If he bites you don't play is what you are trying to tell him. If he continues, use 1 or 2 fingers and tap the top of his muzzle and say 'no bite'. Then go on about your business, forgiving him. Give him something in place of it that he can chew on. Don't play tug at this age or if you do, do it lightly. You can get a few braided and knot toys, wet them down, put on wax paper, freeze. Cold helps relieve teething pain. Supervise when you give it to them. Switch to another frozen one when that one is defrosted. Do not let them ingest the fringes.
If he wants to bite heels (they are herding dogs) carry a flyswatter and wave it (do not hit him) back and forth behind you at floor level. Don't say anything. If he gets close he could get it in the face so swat lightly. He will learn to give more space. Don't move it as if playing.
Be sure to go to YOUTUBE and search for Zak George videos on all these subjects. He has some awesome ones!!!
1. Identify the specific problem. Here, biting ankles and pants legs.
2. Define what you want the puppy to do instead. The answer to this question is *never* "Stop doing the problem behavior." You could suppress the behavior, and the dog could choose to do something even worse! Save yourself a ton of frustration -- and your dog a ton of confusion -- and choose a preferred behavior. In this instance, I'd say, "Walk nicely next to me."
3. Manage the situation so the undesired behavior becomes non reinforcing or impossible. Why is the puppy doing it? Because it's natural to chase and bite moving things.
So step one, if the puppy pounces, STOP MOVING. As soon as the puppy pauses, click and treat -- reinforce the pause in activity. Start walking... stop the moment his teeth touch your ankles or clothes. Never again take a step while the puppy is biting you.
If you don't have time to do that, then MANAGE the situation and put the puppy somewhere where he can't bite you! Or take a different route! Don't get frustrated by your lack of planning and blame the pup.
If you find that the puppy does it only at certain times -- when he's overstimulated or tired, for example, or when you first get home or when you put the leash on -- manage the situation. Identify the triggers and plan for them.
4. Train the preferred behavior. Teach your pup it's fun and reinforcing to walk by your side. Reinforce heavily for any steps at your side -- this is a great foundation for loose-leash walking.
In this method, the dog has learned walking with mom is fun -- more fun than biting ankles and pant legs.
It is never, ever necessary to yell at, growl at, shake, muzzle grab, or otherwise physically punish this behavior. (Gee, I bet those behaviors make the pup anxious to walk at your side during loose leash walking. NOT!) ) Be proactive, not reactive. What has the pup learned if you use physical corrections?
That type of correction says, "I am bigger and stronger and you must do what I want." Is that what you want your pup to learn? If your pup is ever going to get large, or if he's ever going to be around children, physically-challenged people, or the elderly, I don't think you do. Teach what you want -- don't react and punish. If you have to react, YOU screwed up and let it happen. Don't punish the puppy for your poor planning.
(Article Credit Melissa Alexander - www.clickersolutions.com)
Teething, nipping and biting/chewing:
If he starts biting or placing his teeth on your skin say 'aacht' in a high pitched sound and walk away. If he bites you don't play is what you are trying to tell him. If he continues, use 1 or 2 fingers and tap the top of his muzzle and say 'no bite'. Then go on about your business, forgiving him. Give him something in place of it that he can chew on. Don't play tug at this age or if you do, do it lightly. You can get a few braided and knot toys, wet them down, put on wax paper, freeze. Cold helps relieve teething pain. Supervise when you give it to them. Switch to another frozen one when that one is defrosted. Do not let them ingest the fringes.
If he wants to bite heels (they are herding dogs) carry a flyswatter and wave it (do not hit him) back and forth behind you at floor level. Don't say anything. If he gets close he could get it in the face so swat lightly. He will learn to give more space. Don't move it as if playing.
Be sure to go to YOUTUBE and search for Zak George videos on all these subjects. He has some awesome ones!!!
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Socializaion
Socialization: should I socialize my puppy before all vaccinations are done?
Early and continuous socialization is extremely important. Some Aussies are reserved by nature so it must be introduced to many new people (all ages), situations, environments and activities We give you a 2 page checklist to be sure you expose them to all kinds of things. The first few months is the most important. Most times it only takes 1 exposure at a young age but if you wait until they are older it may take a lot of exposures to get them over the new experience/person. An obedience class is highly recommended from a positive reinforcement trainer (clicker training preferred). Take the puppy with you as often as possible. Take the puppy to your vet (if not fully vaccinated, you may not want to let him down but hold instead) just for a visit - no pokes or prods...
Ian Dunbar has helped the world decide it's smarter to get your puppy out for socialization than waiting for all immunizations to take effect. They need to see as many people, pets and places as possible in the first 4 months, starting at 8 weeks old. They will learn their environments and other animals are safe. If you wait the puppy may become fearful of new things. He may defend himself through growling, barking or even biting if he's afraid. Take proper precautions for their safety, however. Walk your puppy in neighborhoods where most dogs are vaccinated and stay away from parks, especially dog parks where other dogs are known to frequently visit.
Early and continuous socialization is extremely important. Some Aussies are reserved by nature so it must be introduced to many new people (all ages), situations, environments and activities We give you a 2 page checklist to be sure you expose them to all kinds of things. The first few months is the most important. Most times it only takes 1 exposure at a young age but if you wait until they are older it may take a lot of exposures to get them over the new experience/person. An obedience class is highly recommended from a positive reinforcement trainer (clicker training preferred). Take the puppy with you as often as possible. Take the puppy to your vet (if not fully vaccinated, you may not want to let him down but hold instead) just for a visit - no pokes or prods...
Ian Dunbar has helped the world decide it's smarter to get your puppy out for socialization than waiting for all immunizations to take effect. They need to see as many people, pets and places as possible in the first 4 months, starting at 8 weeks old. They will learn their environments and other animals are safe. If you wait the puppy may become fearful of new things. He may defend himself through growling, barking or even biting if he's afraid. Take proper precautions for their safety, however. Walk your puppy in neighborhoods where most dogs are vaccinated and stay away from parks, especially dog parks where other dogs are known to frequently visit.
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Training Tips
TEN TIPS for TRAINING Your Puppy:
ONE: Your dog is a dog; not a person in a fuzzy dog suit. Even though he is a member of your family he will act like a dog.
TWO: Bad behavior isn’t personally directed at you so don’t take it personally. Treat bad behavior as a mistake and try to prevent it from happening again.
THREE: Limit your dog’s freedom in the house. He should not have free run of the house until he’s two to three years of age – no younger! Until then he’s not mentally mature enough to handle the responsibility.
FOUR: Limit your dog’s freedom off leash outside of a fenced yard for the same reason.
FIVE: Prevent problems from happening instead of trying to correct bad behavior. Bad behaviors can be self rewarding. Plus, corrections after the
fact don’t work.
SIX: Teach your dog that ‘good’ is a magic word. Use it whenever your dog does something right, smile as you say it, and follow it with praise, petting or a treat.
SEVEN: Timing is very important. Praise your dog the instant he does something right and interrupt him the moment he makes a mistake.
EIGHT: Decide on rules for the house, the yard and out in public and enforce them consistently. Make sure everyone else in the house does so, too.
NINE: Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise every day. A walk is not enough exercise for a young, healthy dog. A run, a jog, a vigorous game of Frisbee is better. A tired dog is a happy dog!
TEN: Remember, you are taking the place of your dog’s parents so act like it. You are his leader, not his best buddy! Your dog is a dog; not a person in a fuzzy dog suit. Even though he is a member of your family he will act like a dog.
ONE: Your dog is a dog; not a person in a fuzzy dog suit. Even though he is a member of your family he will act like a dog.
TWO: Bad behavior isn’t personally directed at you so don’t take it personally. Treat bad behavior as a mistake and try to prevent it from happening again.
THREE: Limit your dog’s freedom in the house. He should not have free run of the house until he’s two to three years of age – no younger! Until then he’s not mentally mature enough to handle the responsibility.
FOUR: Limit your dog’s freedom off leash outside of a fenced yard for the same reason.
FIVE: Prevent problems from happening instead of trying to correct bad behavior. Bad behaviors can be self rewarding. Plus, corrections after the
fact don’t work.
SIX: Teach your dog that ‘good’ is a magic word. Use it whenever your dog does something right, smile as you say it, and follow it with praise, petting or a treat.
SEVEN: Timing is very important. Praise your dog the instant he does something right and interrupt him the moment he makes a mistake.
EIGHT: Decide on rules for the house, the yard and out in public and enforce them consistently. Make sure everyone else in the house does so, too.
NINE: Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise every day. A walk is not enough exercise for a young, healthy dog. A run, a jog, a vigorous game of Frisbee is better. A tired dog is a happy dog!
TEN: Remember, you are taking the place of your dog’s parents so act like it. You are his leader, not his best buddy! Your dog is a dog; not a person in a fuzzy dog suit. Even though he is a member of your family he will act like a dog.
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POTTY TRAINING:
We have started crate training and potty training the puppies. In order to continue on and prevent relapses, you must be CONSISTENT. Do not SCOLD your puppy for peeing/pooping in the house. This will just build a fear in them or stress them and they will hide from you to do it next time. Do not take the puppy out every hour or they will not build the muscles to hold it a bit longer but try to get them out before they need to go (like after they play hard or just wake up). Clean the accident thoroughly so they can't smell it and go there again. Do not give the puppy too much freedom in house. If you can't watch the puppy, put it in a crate, outside or in a pen. You can also attach a leash to them and you so the puppy doesn't wander off. Too much freedom too soon could set them back weeks or months. Do not confine your puppy so far away from family that noone hears it ask to go outside. Be sure to watch for signs, they will be there, you need to watch! USE A CRATE or PEN. Confining to it's own living space is the only way to truly succeed at potty training! Do all this consistently for 1 month and straight and your puppy should be pretty reliable to hold it!
We have started crate training and potty training the puppies. In order to continue on and prevent relapses, you must be CONSISTENT. Do not SCOLD your puppy for peeing/pooping in the house. This will just build a fear in them or stress them and they will hide from you to do it next time. Do not take the puppy out every hour or they will not build the muscles to hold it a bit longer but try to get them out before they need to go (like after they play hard or just wake up). Clean the accident thoroughly so they can't smell it and go there again. Do not give the puppy too much freedom in house. If you can't watch the puppy, put it in a crate, outside or in a pen. You can also attach a leash to them and you so the puppy doesn't wander off. Too much freedom too soon could set them back weeks or months. Do not confine your puppy so far away from family that noone hears it ask to go outside. Be sure to watch for signs, they will be there, you need to watch! USE A CRATE or PEN. Confining to it's own living space is the only way to truly succeed at potty training! Do all this consistently for 1 month and straight and your puppy should be pretty reliable to hold it!
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RECALLS: Recalls are highly important, it can save your puppies life!
A recall for a puppy is quite simple - BUT a recall with distractions could prove to be more difficult. Use classical conditioning to get your puppy to have a solid recall. This is where the puppy learns to make an association between two stimuli. Ivan Pavlov illustrated classical conditioning through his experiments - when food was presented to dog it naturally salivated. After repeating the sound of a bell with food the dog salivated just by hearing the bell even when food was absent. The bell meant nothing to the dog in the beginning.
Typical recalls people use are 'come' or 'here' a whistle or blinking light (in the case of a blind dog). What you do after the recall word/sound will dictate what your dog's response will be. Say the word/sound then treat when the dog comes. No other behavior is necessary, just coming. The puppy learns to expect something good when it comes. Don't just call the puppy when it 'expects' you to - call when it's looking away, playing with a toy, etc. Also do not call the puppy to come to do something it won't like - such as brushing, checking teeth, putting in the crate, give it a vaccination, coming in the house if it wants to be outside, etc. GO pick up your puppy if you are wanting to do any of those things.
Puppies/dogs are smart, they know when you are being predictable - if you go for a walk off leash and call the dog to come then put it in the crate to go home (and it doesn't want to, of course) it may come the first few times but after a few times it's going to know that 'game' and not come. In order to prevent these things from happening you need to be UNPREDICTABLE! Yes, unpredictable! So before you go to work, let your puppy play in the yard, call him to come, give treat then let him go back out to play. One day do this 1ce, another 2ce, another 3 or 4 times (take the time to do it, it will be worth it). Keep that puppy guessing! On your walk - have the puppy come like you are going to leave, treat it, DON'T leave, let it go play again. When you decide to leash him to go home, walk a ways away from the area you leashed him last time, call, treat, leash and walk home!
A recall for a puppy is quite simple - BUT a recall with distractions could prove to be more difficult. Use classical conditioning to get your puppy to have a solid recall. This is where the puppy learns to make an association between two stimuli. Ivan Pavlov illustrated classical conditioning through his experiments - when food was presented to dog it naturally salivated. After repeating the sound of a bell with food the dog salivated just by hearing the bell even when food was absent. The bell meant nothing to the dog in the beginning.
Typical recalls people use are 'come' or 'here' a whistle or blinking light (in the case of a blind dog). What you do after the recall word/sound will dictate what your dog's response will be. Say the word/sound then treat when the dog comes. No other behavior is necessary, just coming. The puppy learns to expect something good when it comes. Don't just call the puppy when it 'expects' you to - call when it's looking away, playing with a toy, etc. Also do not call the puppy to come to do something it won't like - such as brushing, checking teeth, putting in the crate, give it a vaccination, coming in the house if it wants to be outside, etc. GO pick up your puppy if you are wanting to do any of those things.
Puppies/dogs are smart, they know when you are being predictable - if you go for a walk off leash and call the dog to come then put it in the crate to go home (and it doesn't want to, of course) it may come the first few times but after a few times it's going to know that 'game' and not come. In order to prevent these things from happening you need to be UNPREDICTABLE! Yes, unpredictable! So before you go to work, let your puppy play in the yard, call him to come, give treat then let him go back out to play. One day do this 1ce, another 2ce, another 3 or 4 times (take the time to do it, it will be worth it). Keep that puppy guessing! On your walk - have the puppy come like you are going to leave, treat it, DON'T leave, let it go play again. When you decide to leash him to go home, walk a ways away from the area you leashed him last time, call, treat, leash and walk home!
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Crate Training:
We highly recommend crate training for going to bed and potty training. We have them well started before they leave here. Many pups will sleep 6 hrs before they leave here and they all eat their meals in a crate. You may need to place the crate in your room close to you for a few days. As they get used to that, move the crate further from you each night. Be consistent - it will pay off!
Until the puppies know where we want them to go potty we go out with them. Use a word like 'go' or 'potty'. When they go have a celebration - clap your hands and say "good potty". If you see the puppy circle or whine, get him out before he has an accident. IF the puppy has an accident, do NOT punish him, he will just start hiding to have his 'accident' (it's really not an accident - they have to go when they have to go, it's up to us to watch for the signs and/or take them out plenty of times to give them a chance to go). Plan to get up with the puppy until about 12-14 weeks old. If you wake up, take the pup out potty then put it back in the crate. If the pup wakes up he may need to go potty or you may just keep quiet for a few minutes and see if it goes back to sleep. Be sure to withhold food 2 hrs before bedtime. If you can get the puppy out BEFORE he cries it's best as he won't think the crying is what made you let him out (like praise). If he needs to go out in the night be sure to go with him outside, go potty, then put right back in the crate. Do not play or get too exciting at this time. Never put your pup in a dirty crate.
We give the pup a treat when they go in the crate so they begin to enjoy it and know there's a reward for going in. Puppies sleep a lot! Be sure the puppy gets plenty of quiet rest during the day. You will notice eventually the puppy may go in to the crate with the door open on his own.
Submissive peeing can also happen: When a puppy is extremely happy, excited or frightened, he may pee. This is INVOLUNTARY, do not punish the puppy. That will make it worse. Ignore it, usually they outgrow these emotional reactions.
Make sure everyone in the household is 'on the same page' when it comes to potty and crate training. Consistency is highly important for the puppy
We highly recommend crate training for going to bed and potty training. We have them well started before they leave here. Many pups will sleep 6 hrs before they leave here and they all eat their meals in a crate. You may need to place the crate in your room close to you for a few days. As they get used to that, move the crate further from you each night. Be consistent - it will pay off!
Until the puppies know where we want them to go potty we go out with them. Use a word like 'go' or 'potty'. When they go have a celebration - clap your hands and say "good potty". If you see the puppy circle or whine, get him out before he has an accident. IF the puppy has an accident, do NOT punish him, he will just start hiding to have his 'accident' (it's really not an accident - they have to go when they have to go, it's up to us to watch for the signs and/or take them out plenty of times to give them a chance to go). Plan to get up with the puppy until about 12-14 weeks old. If you wake up, take the pup out potty then put it back in the crate. If the pup wakes up he may need to go potty or you may just keep quiet for a few minutes and see if it goes back to sleep. Be sure to withhold food 2 hrs before bedtime. If you can get the puppy out BEFORE he cries it's best as he won't think the crying is what made you let him out (like praise). If he needs to go out in the night be sure to go with him outside, go potty, then put right back in the crate. Do not play or get too exciting at this time. Never put your pup in a dirty crate.
We give the pup a treat when they go in the crate so they begin to enjoy it and know there's a reward for going in. Puppies sleep a lot! Be sure the puppy gets plenty of quiet rest during the day. You will notice eventually the puppy may go in to the crate with the door open on his own.
Submissive peeing can also happen: When a puppy is extremely happy, excited or frightened, he may pee. This is INVOLUNTARY, do not punish the puppy. That will make it worse. Ignore it, usually they outgrow these emotional reactions.
Make sure everyone in the household is 'on the same page' when it comes to potty and crate training. Consistency is highly important for the puppy
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Basic Training:
When they start to chew on something he shouldn't, say 'No', take him away from it and what he's doing and give him something to chew on. Rawhides and cowears are fine but not too many as he could become constipated, plush toys or ties on a rope are fine if supervised. Rotate toys so he doesn't become bored. If you want him to play frisbee later, feed him in one now, he will get used to the smell, taste and texture. Start with rolling it on the ground, then tossing low right to him, then you can graduate in to tossing further away and in a location they have to look for it to go. You want him to succeed at whatever he does, don't set him up for failure.
Don't break your puppy's spirit: Control the environment and reward positive actions and confidence. Do not reward unwanted behaviors. Have them work for their treats and love - a sit or down instead of jumping up and such.
Do not wait for them to 'settle in' before training. The puppy will form new habits right aware, whether you are aware of it or not. The humans in the household are also developing habits. Be sure to develop good habits for both humans and puppy right away. Set clear rules and guidelines, communicate them by rewarding those desired behaviors exactly when/as they occur. Puppies will be more aware of your body language than human words.
When they start to chew on something he shouldn't, say 'No', take him away from it and what he's doing and give him something to chew on. Rawhides and cowears are fine but not too many as he could become constipated, plush toys or ties on a rope are fine if supervised. Rotate toys so he doesn't become bored. If you want him to play frisbee later, feed him in one now, he will get used to the smell, taste and texture. Start with rolling it on the ground, then tossing low right to him, then you can graduate in to tossing further away and in a location they have to look for it to go. You want him to succeed at whatever he does, don't set him up for failure.
Don't break your puppy's spirit: Control the environment and reward positive actions and confidence. Do not reward unwanted behaviors. Have them work for their treats and love - a sit or down instead of jumping up and such.
Do not wait for them to 'settle in' before training. The puppy will form new habits right aware, whether you are aware of it or not. The humans in the household are also developing habits. Be sure to develop good habits for both humans and puppy right away. Set clear rules and guidelines, communicate them by rewarding those desired behaviors exactly when/as they occur. Puppies will be more aware of your body language than human words.
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Online Training:
www.ultimatepuppy.com Be sure to click on the box on the right side "Sign Up for Puppy Bytes" to receive weekly emails.
Go to Youtube and search for Zak George videos - short, positive training and fun!
www.avidog.com Search around for training tips
Baxter and Bella - training tips for life!
Susan Garrett - Dogs That
WHY SHOULD YOU TRAIN YOUR PUPPY? BECAUSE soon it will be an adolescent/ a teenager...! This article will help you know what to expect!
What Happens When Dogs Hit Adolescence? - Dog Discoveries
TRAINING: How to find a reputable, positive trainer to help you and your puppy grow, bond and learn together (video)
www.ultimatepuppy.com Be sure to click on the box on the right side "Sign Up for Puppy Bytes" to receive weekly emails.
Go to Youtube and search for Zak George videos - short, positive training and fun!
www.avidog.com Search around for training tips
Baxter and Bella - training tips for life!
Susan Garrett - Dogs That
WHY SHOULD YOU TRAIN YOUR PUPPY? BECAUSE soon it will be an adolescent/ a teenager...! This article will help you know what to expect!
What Happens When Dogs Hit Adolescence? - Dog Discoveries
TRAINING: How to find a reputable, positive trainer to help you and your puppy grow, bond and learn together (video)
Health & Nutrition
We at Azure Sky Minis test our dogs for PRA/PRCD, DM, HC, CEA, NAD, Non HSF4, CDDY/IVVD and MDR1 as well as OFA Hips, Elbows and Patellas and eye CERF exams. Health is very important to us! We also 'run the numbers' on our crosses before doing them. We watch our lines closely to avoid epilepsy to the best o our ability. That said, they are animals and things can and will happen even with the best prevention. We will continue to be educated and test for any new problems that arise in the breed!
PM us if you'd like info on puppy's parents that you are interested in.
PM us if you'd like info on puppy's parents that you are interested in.
New Vaccination Protocol
(courtesy of Michel Selmer, DVM, Advanced Animal Care Center Huntington Station, NY 631-367-7387)
This is welcome news and should be taken with you to your vet should you need reinforcement against over-vaccination.
I would like to make you aware that all 27 veterinary schools in North America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating dogs and cats.
Some of this information will present an ethical & economic challenge to vets, and there will be skeptics. Some organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss of income vs. those concerned about potential side effects.
Politics, traditions, or the doctor’s economic well-being should not be a factor in medical decision.
New principles of immunology
Dogs' and cats' immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces immunity, which is good for the life of the pet (ie: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not “boosted” nor are more memory cells induced.
Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated haemolytic anaemia. There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines.
Puppies receive antibodies through their mothers milk. This natural protection can last 8-14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be vaccinated at less than 8 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced.
Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, DELAY the timing of the first highly effective vaccine.
Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart SUPPRESS rather than stimulate the immune system.
A series of vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age.
Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at 1 year 4 mo) will provide lifetime immunity.
Or you can follow the Dogs Naturally Magazine's protocol _
WE FEEL LESS IS MORE if you can!
Emergency Care:
We use our local vets when needed but we try natural Young Living Essential Oils or Homeopathic remedies first. We also use Natural Products to prevent allergies or other issues in the future. We are against over vaccinating!!! Read more of the protocol we use on our Mini Aussie/Mini Americans Info page
Be sure to keep your dog's nails trimmed!
Dr Karen Becker - Mercola
Essential Oils for Animals -Reference
Homeopathic treatments for dogs
(courtesy of Michel Selmer, DVM, Advanced Animal Care Center Huntington Station, NY 631-367-7387)
This is welcome news and should be taken with you to your vet should you need reinforcement against over-vaccination.
I would like to make you aware that all 27 veterinary schools in North America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating dogs and cats.
Some of this information will present an ethical & economic challenge to vets, and there will be skeptics. Some organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss of income vs. those concerned about potential side effects.
Politics, traditions, or the doctor’s economic well-being should not be a factor in medical decision.
New principles of immunology
Dogs' and cats' immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces immunity, which is good for the life of the pet (ie: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not “boosted” nor are more memory cells induced.
Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated haemolytic anaemia. There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines.
Puppies receive antibodies through their mothers milk. This natural protection can last 8-14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be vaccinated at less than 8 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced.
Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, DELAY the timing of the first highly effective vaccine.
Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart SUPPRESS rather than stimulate the immune system.
A series of vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age.
Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at 1 year 4 mo) will provide lifetime immunity.
Or you can follow the Dogs Naturally Magazine's protocol _
WE FEEL LESS IS MORE if you can!
Emergency Care:
We use our local vets when needed but we try natural Young Living Essential Oils or Homeopathic remedies first. We also use Natural Products to prevent allergies or other issues in the future. We are against over vaccinating!!! Read more of the protocol we use on our Mini Aussie/Mini Americans Info page
Be sure to keep your dog's nails trimmed!
Dr Karen Becker - Mercola
Essential Oils for Animals -Reference
Homeopathic treatments for dogs
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Puppy Culture
We raise our puppies using the techniques Puppy Culture offers. Puppy Culture is a birth to 12 week program implementing the science of behavior and puppy development designed to help develop pups to their full potential. It prepares our puppies for life through a series of exercises to be more adaptable, confident and more able to fit in our society. It also helps puppy owners be more effective in their training and understanding their puppies. Since our implementation of Puppy Culture our litters are even more ready to handle life's challenges. They are more resilient, stable, responsive, smarter (if that's a possibility) and their recovery time is even faster. We help shape our puppies futures to be the best that they can be so that they can be the dog that everyone would want to own with less or no puppies ending up in rescues! We highly recommend you continue on with the program from 8 to 12 (or longer) weeks old. The first 12 to 16 weeks of your puppy's life is the MOST IMPORTANT time to shape the way that puppy will live and cope with its life. Puppy Culture is available in DVD, BLU-RAY, and Video on Demand with over 50 lessons arranged in a logical, week-by-week timeline to provide breeders and puppy owners a clear roadmap for raising a puppy.
Much of what people feel is a problem adult - from aggression to lack of focus - often comes due to a failure or omission in the first 12 weeks of life! Since we have the pups the first 8 weeks of their life we feel it's highly important to do our part in producing a well-developed, well-balanced adult dog. You can still get good results on an older puppy/dog but it will take a lot more time and effort. The first 12 weeks the puppy's brain is a sponge. Once that window closes you have to train behaviors or desensitize.
A typical timeline for our puppies:
Pregnant female's belly is stroked and she gets a lot of attention. The emotional health of mom reflects on the puppies.
3-16 Days we do Early Neurological Stimulation and Scent Introduction. We also start trimming nails every 3 days
2-3 weeks: Eyes and ears are now open so socialization begins. We also start potty training and have their bed be in a crate with the door open so they get used to going in and out of that and it makes crate training easier at 6 weeks.
3 weeks: They ask for attention. They sound violent but it's normal for them to growl. We keep the nails short and introduce a new toy each day.
3 1/2 weeks: We start having visitors. We start teaching recovery from fear - bouncing back. We make loud noises, slam doors, vacuum, use blender, drop pans, play noise CD's, etc. They recover almost immediately and don't really have fear. They need to recover from startling from people. We take each pup out individually each day. We start feeding food at this time and teach them to 'come' when putting the food down. We feed in a frisbee, stainless steel, plastic, a round sled so it wobble some, etc. so they get used to eating on different surfaces. We touch and handle their ears, paws and mouths.
4 weeks old: We start giving them lots of space to play and exercise throughout the day. We introducing challenging things and change objects daily. We start introducing cats, other dogs, etc. They are asked to do some problem solving (and dealing with frustration), we do not help them they have to figure it out on their own. We start training them to mand and take treats by hand. We want them to 'ask' for things not just expect it so they must sit when they want something from us - in front of us with no verbal cue. When they do they get a treat. We introduce an adventure box from Avid Dogs with different textures, colors, items for more stable puppies. If the crazy Wyoming weather happens to be nice we introduce them to the outdoor world. We add using 'come' as they come towards and back in to the house. The puppies go for their first car ride this week. They have grates to walk over, cat toys to play with, wobbly items, things to step and climb over, different textures to walk over - rock, wood, tile, carpet, cement, dirt, grass, etc. from now until they leave for new homes. We start our manding training at this age too. They have to sit to be picked up, get fed, get a treat. etc. We continue this until the puppy leaves our home.
5 weeks: A Fear/sensitive period can set in during this time We expose them to new things but if they are overly afraid we proceed with caution. We want their experiences to safe. We have lots of lovey time and continue clicker training. The puppies go for another car ride or two this week.
We spend even more time with them away from their mom and siblings. Short periods of training are necessary because they get tired quickly.
6 weeks: They have high curiosity this week. We have visitors come play and work with the puppies setting down the rules beforehand. We introduce the puppy walk and wobble board. We take them to the neighbors for new experiences. We put clothes and scarves on them ;)! We start group then individual crate training in different crates.
7-8 weeks: We continue what we have been working on with them as well as work on resource guarding, following our hands/fingers with food in them, give them food puzzles, start on scent training, having a collar on and leash training. We start our matching to new prospective families at 7 1/2 to 8 weeks old. Puppies are vaccinated, get microchips and are ready to go!
After they go to new homes: The new home reinforces what we have done and continues on. The first 4 months are the most important in your puppy's life so be sure to do the most the first 2 months you have them!
WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND ALL OUR PUPPY CLIENTS TO PURCHASE THESE VIDEOS IN ADVANCE OF GETTING YOUR PUPPY!!!
WE REQUIRE ALL FEMALE GUARDIAN HOMES TO IMPLEMENT THIS PROGRAM!!!
Benefits of Puppy Culture For Puppy Owners:
We also have started incorporating Avidog and Badass Breeders programs for our puppies as well as a few other programs that we feel will benefit!
Much of what people feel is a problem adult - from aggression to lack of focus - often comes due to a failure or omission in the first 12 weeks of life! Since we have the pups the first 8 weeks of their life we feel it's highly important to do our part in producing a well-developed, well-balanced adult dog. You can still get good results on an older puppy/dog but it will take a lot more time and effort. The first 12 weeks the puppy's brain is a sponge. Once that window closes you have to train behaviors or desensitize.
A typical timeline for our puppies:
Pregnant female's belly is stroked and she gets a lot of attention. The emotional health of mom reflects on the puppies.
3-16 Days we do Early Neurological Stimulation and Scent Introduction. We also start trimming nails every 3 days
2-3 weeks: Eyes and ears are now open so socialization begins. We also start potty training and have their bed be in a crate with the door open so they get used to going in and out of that and it makes crate training easier at 6 weeks.
3 weeks: They ask for attention. They sound violent but it's normal for them to growl. We keep the nails short and introduce a new toy each day.
3 1/2 weeks: We start having visitors. We start teaching recovery from fear - bouncing back. We make loud noises, slam doors, vacuum, use blender, drop pans, play noise CD's, etc. They recover almost immediately and don't really have fear. They need to recover from startling from people. We take each pup out individually each day. We start feeding food at this time and teach them to 'come' when putting the food down. We feed in a frisbee, stainless steel, plastic, a round sled so it wobble some, etc. so they get used to eating on different surfaces. We touch and handle their ears, paws and mouths.
4 weeks old: We start giving them lots of space to play and exercise throughout the day. We introducing challenging things and change objects daily. We start introducing cats, other dogs, etc. They are asked to do some problem solving (and dealing with frustration), we do not help them they have to figure it out on their own. We start training them to mand and take treats by hand. We want them to 'ask' for things not just expect it so they must sit when they want something from us - in front of us with no verbal cue. When they do they get a treat. We introduce an adventure box from Avid Dogs with different textures, colors, items for more stable puppies. If the crazy Wyoming weather happens to be nice we introduce them to the outdoor world. We add using 'come' as they come towards and back in to the house. The puppies go for their first car ride this week. They have grates to walk over, cat toys to play with, wobbly items, things to step and climb over, different textures to walk over - rock, wood, tile, carpet, cement, dirt, grass, etc. from now until they leave for new homes. We start our manding training at this age too. They have to sit to be picked up, get fed, get a treat. etc. We continue this until the puppy leaves our home.
5 weeks: A Fear/sensitive period can set in during this time We expose them to new things but if they are overly afraid we proceed with caution. We want their experiences to safe. We have lots of lovey time and continue clicker training. The puppies go for another car ride or two this week.
We spend even more time with them away from their mom and siblings. Short periods of training are necessary because they get tired quickly.
6 weeks: They have high curiosity this week. We have visitors come play and work with the puppies setting down the rules beforehand. We introduce the puppy walk and wobble board. We take them to the neighbors for new experiences. We put clothes and scarves on them ;)! We start group then individual crate training in different crates.
7-8 weeks: We continue what we have been working on with them as well as work on resource guarding, following our hands/fingers with food in them, give them food puzzles, start on scent training, having a collar on and leash training. We start our matching to new prospective families at 7 1/2 to 8 weeks old. Puppies are vaccinated, get microchips and are ready to go!
After they go to new homes: The new home reinforces what we have done and continues on. The first 4 months are the most important in your puppy's life so be sure to do the most the first 2 months you have them!
WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND ALL OUR PUPPY CLIENTS TO PURCHASE THESE VIDEOS IN ADVANCE OF GETTING YOUR PUPPY!!!
WE REQUIRE ALL FEMALE GUARDIAN HOMES TO IMPLEMENT THIS PROGRAM!!!
Benefits of Puppy Culture For Puppy Owners:
- The Critical Socialization Period
- Helps you Find a Good Puppy Class
- Research on Vaccination vs. Socialization
- Helps you Handle Fear Periods
- Helps you with Leash Walking, Recall, Crate and Potty Training
- Training Markers
- Manding - response is reinforced by a characteristic consequence
- Prevents common behavioral problems -resource guarding, separation anxiety, biting, jumping and more...
Dogs are SOCIAL animals they need our time, love and attention. For this reason we keep VERY few females at our home and co-own
with smaller breeders who will have and take the time to do Puppy Culture!
We also have started incorporating Avidog and Badass Breeders programs for our puppies as well as a few other programs that we feel will benefit!
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Food and MDR1
Azure Sky dogs love Life's Abundance!
Life's Abundance is a highly recommended feed with high values and protocols set to ensure high quality, healthy, and safe food, supplements, and treats for your dog.
Supplements we recommend: Salmon Oil, pre/probiotics and Ester-C for puppies to 18 months old. There are times we 'change' up the supplements we give our dogs depending on needs.
Be sureto ask if you would like recommendations.
Treats we recommend: because we don't want our dogs to become overweight we use their kibble as treats most often, as well as dehydrated raw treats such as liver, trachea and lung. Don't feed too much of it and remember a LITTLE bit goes a LONG way! We treat with Vital Essentials, Nature's Logic and any natural treats and bones - bully sticks, cow ears. They all have calories so keep it minimal! We also give frozen food in Kongs and lick mats to keep them busy!
Life's Abundance is a highly recommended feed with high values and protocols set to ensure high quality, healthy, and safe food, supplements, and treats for your dog.
Supplements we recommend: Salmon Oil, pre/probiotics and Ester-C for puppies to 18 months old. There are times we 'change' up the supplements we give our dogs depending on needs.
Be sureto ask if you would like recommendations.
Treats we recommend: because we don't want our dogs to become overweight we use their kibble as treats most often, as well as dehydrated raw treats such as liver, trachea and lung. Don't feed too much of it and remember a LITTLE bit goes a LONG way! We treat with Vital Essentials, Nature's Logic and any natural treats and bones - bully sticks, cow ears. They all have calories so keep it minimal! We also give frozen food in Kongs and lick mats to keep them busy!
MDR1 Sensitivity
Aussies are known to have dangerous reactions to certain drugs. This is referred to as MDR1 Sensitivity. SICKNESS OR EVEN DEATH can be avoided if you stay away from the following drugs or have your dogs tested before using them! Please print the following list and have your vet add it to your dog's file. Ask your vet for alternative drugs.
COMMON HOUSEHOLD AND HORSE/RANCH DRUGS POISONOUS TO AUSSIES, MINI AUSSIES/AMERICANS:
IVERMECTIN - (antiparasitic agent)
LOPERAMIDE - (Imodium, over the counter human anti-diarrhea agent)
DOXORUBICIN - (anti-cancer agent)
VINCRISTINE - (anti-cancer agent)
VINBLASTINE - (anti-cancer agent)
CYCLOSPORIN - (immunosuppressive agent)
DIGOXIN - (heart medication)
ACEPROMAZINE - (tranquilizer)
BUTAPHONAL - (pain control)
POTENTIALLY PROBLEMATIC DRUGS for more information on MDR1 Sensitivity, click here
Abamectin Acepromazine Actinomycin D Aldosterone
Amitriptyline Butorphanol Cortisol Cyclosporine
Dexamethasone Digoxin Diltiazem Docetaxel
Domperidone Doxorubicin Doxycycline Erythromycin
Etoposide Itraconazole Ivermectin (antiparasitic)
Ketoconazole Levofloxaci Loperamide (Immodium)
Methylprednisolone Milbemycin (Trifexis) Morphine Moxidectin
Ondansetron Paclitaxel Selamectin Sparfloxacin
Tacrolimus Talinolol Terfendadine Tetracycline
Vecuronium Verapamil Vinblastine Vincristine
Aussies are known to have dangerous reactions to certain drugs. This is referred to as MDR1 Sensitivity. SICKNESS OR EVEN DEATH can be avoided if you stay away from the following drugs or have your dogs tested before using them! Please print the following list and have your vet add it to your dog's file. Ask your vet for alternative drugs.
COMMON HOUSEHOLD AND HORSE/RANCH DRUGS POISONOUS TO AUSSIES, MINI AUSSIES/AMERICANS:
IVERMECTIN - (antiparasitic agent)
LOPERAMIDE - (Imodium, over the counter human anti-diarrhea agent)
DOXORUBICIN - (anti-cancer agent)
VINCRISTINE - (anti-cancer agent)
VINBLASTINE - (anti-cancer agent)
CYCLOSPORIN - (immunosuppressive agent)
DIGOXIN - (heart medication)
ACEPROMAZINE - (tranquilizer)
BUTAPHONAL - (pain control)
POTENTIALLY PROBLEMATIC DRUGS for more information on MDR1 Sensitivity, click here
Abamectin Acepromazine Actinomycin D Aldosterone
Amitriptyline Butorphanol Cortisol Cyclosporine
Dexamethasone Digoxin Diltiazem Docetaxel
Domperidone Doxorubicin Doxycycline Erythromycin
Etoposide Itraconazole Ivermectin (antiparasitic)
Ketoconazole Levofloxaci Loperamide (Immodium)
Methylprednisolone Milbemycin (Trifexis) Morphine Moxidectin
Ondansetron Paclitaxel Selamectin Sparfloxacin
Tacrolimus Talinolol Terfendadine Tetracycline
Vecuronium Verapamil Vinblastine Vincristine
Grooming
The Miniature American Shepherd has an easy to care for coat that is not as problematic as some of the double coated breeds. The thicker, slightly coarse and straight outer coat is simple to brush using a pin brush or stiff bristle brush. Always start by grooming the outer coat in the direction of growth which is slightly back and down. After this is completed, start at the shoulders and push the longer hair forward, exposing the dense, downy undercoat, brush this again the direction of growth, moving down the back and sides. Pay particular attention to the hair round the neck, the furnishings on the legs and the hair on the rump as these can be areas prone to matting and tangling.
Typically, the Miniature Australian Shepherd is an average shedder. However, they will shed their coats heavily in the spring and fall. During these times the inner coat will come out in chunks or clumps and can become very matted. Daily brushing will both help speed up the shedding as well as prevent these mats from forming. If mats do form in the hair that is being shed they may need to be cut out using blunt ended scissors.
The Miniature Australian Shepherd should be only minimally clipped or trimmed for show and, typically, should not require much of clipping or trimming at home. Puppies have shorter coats that will not reach their full adult coat length until about one year of age. The Miniature Australian Shepherd has natural oils in the hair to keep the dog dry and warm even in cold or damp conditions, so it is not advisable to bathe this breed unless absolutely necessary. Dry dog powder is often used between wet baths just to help remove dirt from the hair.
Do not forget to trim toenails regularly!!!
Australian Shepherd Hair Care (Complete Grooming Guide!) | Paws and Learn
SHOULD I SHAVE MY AUSSIE:
Here's a direct quote from a groomer and we agree wholeheartedly:
"Shaving an Aussie or any double coated dog takes away their ability to cool themselves off. It can also ruin the top coat and make it not grow back or just destroy the silky beautiful coat. I strongly advise against it."
Typically, the Miniature Australian Shepherd is an average shedder. However, they will shed their coats heavily in the spring and fall. During these times the inner coat will come out in chunks or clumps and can become very matted. Daily brushing will both help speed up the shedding as well as prevent these mats from forming. If mats do form in the hair that is being shed they may need to be cut out using blunt ended scissors.
The Miniature Australian Shepherd should be only minimally clipped or trimmed for show and, typically, should not require much of clipping or trimming at home. Puppies have shorter coats that will not reach their full adult coat length until about one year of age. The Miniature Australian Shepherd has natural oils in the hair to keep the dog dry and warm even in cold or damp conditions, so it is not advisable to bathe this breed unless absolutely necessary. Dry dog powder is often used between wet baths just to help remove dirt from the hair.
Do not forget to trim toenails regularly!!!
Australian Shepherd Hair Care (Complete Grooming Guide!) | Paws and Learn
SHOULD I SHAVE MY AUSSIE:
Here's a direct quote from a groomer and we agree wholeheartedly:
"Shaving an Aussie or any double coated dog takes away their ability to cool themselves off. It can also ruin the top coat and make it not grow back or just destroy the silky beautiful coat. I strongly advise against it."
Titles and Abbreviations
What are all those abbreviations before
and after the dog's names:
The basic abbreviations are:
Prefix:
AKC - American Kennel Club
UKC - United Kennel Club
CH - Champion (may clarify which registry)
GCH - Grand Champion (If there's another letter after the 'H' it's the level of Grand Championship the title is)
PACH or MACH - Agility Champion (and others)
HC - Herding Champion
Suffix:
First letter is R - Rally O-Obedience A-Agility H-Herding
S-Scent Work
S-
ATT- Temperament test
THD - Therapy Dog
TK - Trick Dog
CGC, CGCA, CGCU - Canine Good Citizen
BCAT, DCAT, FCAT - Fastcat titles
When you see a N it usually means novice, O-open, A-advanced, E-excellent, M-Masters
For a full list:
Titles & Abbreviations – American Kennel Club (akc.org)
and after the dog's names:
The basic abbreviations are:
Prefix:
AKC - American Kennel Club
UKC - United Kennel Club
CH - Champion (may clarify which registry)
GCH - Grand Champion (If there's another letter after the 'H' it's the level of Grand Championship the title is)
PACH or MACH - Agility Champion (and others)
HC - Herding Champion
Suffix:
First letter is R - Rally O-Obedience A-Agility H-Herding
S-Scent Work
S-
ATT- Temperament test
THD - Therapy Dog
TK - Trick Dog
CGC, CGCA, CGCU - Canine Good Citizen
BCAT, DCAT, FCAT - Fastcat titles
When you see a N it usually means novice, O-open, A-advanced, E-excellent, M-Masters
For a full list:
Titles & Abbreviations – American Kennel Club (akc.org)
Frequently Asked Questions:
Why should I send a deposit at all or even early?
The deposit is to get you high on the list of purchasers giving you the best chance of the puppy you prefer (color, sex and such). It is the basis of us even breeding a litter (without deposits ahead of time we won't even breed that go-round). It's a trust that starts being built between us. We keep in touch on who is bred, when due, when puppies will be ready for new homes and such - giving you the opportunity to prepare ahead of time.
Does my deposit apply towards the price of my puppy and is it refundable?
Yes, the deposit will be applied to the balance of the puppy due at 8 weeks old. Our deposits are not refundable. A deposit is a good-faith gesture saying you will be committing to a puppy. If 'life' happens when you planned to get a puppy and you cannot do so at that time, the deposit will be carried over for a puppy at a later date, up to 2 years.
How does the process of matching a puppy to me/us work?
Matching goes in order of deposit but when 2 or more puppies match a family but only 1 matches you, you will get offered that puppy. This usually applies to 'harder' matches such as first time Mini owners, purchasers with small children and purchasers who do performance/conformation events.
When will my puppy be ready to go to my home?
Most puppies are ready when they are 8 weeks old. At times there may be a puppy we feel needs another few days or week to be ready but usually 8 weeks.
How will I be able to get my puppy at 8 weeks?
We make 1 trip the Denver area (usually close to the weekend and at 8 weeks old) per litter for FREE. Any other trips we need to make because you cannot schedule that day is a $50 fee. We meet when the most clients are available for the 1 trip. We can meet in Cheyenne, Wyoming; Windsor exit, Colorado, Longmont, Colorado or Denver International Airport for in-cabin flights only (you or a friend/family member flies in to pick up the puppy and fly home with it) . We also have 2 super great flight nannies who fly puppies to your area (direct flights if possible) or clients are able to come up here and meet/pick up their puppy at the ranch.
How will my puppy be registered?
Our puppies are all AKC registered as Miniature American Shepherds with their name starting 74 Ranch. We will register your puppy for you, working alongside you on a great name. We also register the microchip with AKC Reunite. There is a $35 fee on the blance of all puppies to cover those 2 fees.
Are there any hidden fees?
There is a $35 fee to register the pup with AKC and microchip with AKC Reunite, a $50 fee if you need us to make a special trip to meet you with your puppy (within 3 hrs of our home) and the balance of the puppy. If you need an airline carrier, we charge what we pay for them, usually $30-40.
What is the process of purchasing a puppy from 74 Ranch?
If you have never owned a Mini, be sure to research the breed to see if it's the right one for you and your family (we can also discuss this if you like). Fill out our purchaser's agreement on this site and give us a chance to call or email you back. If you feel comfortable with us and we feel the same with you, fill out our holding agreement and send a deposit ($300 check, Zelle or Venmo). We will be in touch on what we have coming or available. We will have a few discussions, whether email or phone, on different options and when a decision is made, we will set up a meeting time/place for you to get your puppy. The contract will be sent ahead of time on email for you to look over, print and sign. We will get the contract from you with any payment due and you will get your new lifetime companion!
What is the difference between a Mini Aussie and an AKC Mini American?
AKC accepted the Miniature Australian Shepherd in 2011. They had to RENAME the breed to Miniature American (voted on in the MASCUSA club). Our puppies are Miniature American Shepherds. We register them and their microchip for you within a week or two of it being purchased. The registered name will begin with 74 Ranch and we will help you fill in the rest.
